5 minutes to bright eyes, for when we don’t really have time for makeup.
Do you often wake up with tired eyes and wonder how to give the illusion of brighter, more awake eyes, with minimal effort? My simple tips, can make a BIG difference.
My MUST haves :
matte flesh (your flesh) coloured eye shadow
plus one that is a shade darker (e.g. beige and taupe)
charcoal grey or black coal eye pencil
a soft champagne coloured shimmer shadow to highlight
basic sable eye shadow brush
fine angle brush (my absolute fav is Napoleon’s g5)
Step 1: Prep your eyelid just as you would your face, use a small amount of foundation all over your lid as well as below to even out skin tone then dust with a loose or compact powder (whatever you are inclined to use) to set your foundation.
Step 2: Using your basic shadow brush do a wash of your flesh colour all over your lid to just above your eye socket keeping it sheer and blending well so the top disappears into nothing.
Step 3: For those of you that tend to have a slightly fuller, maybe puffier or even marginal loss of elasticity on your lid, take your darker flesh shade and dust* this wherever you want to “push”.Think of this as not placing shadow as a feature which we normally do but placing it wherever you would want to lessen the puff so to speak.
If your eyelid was a piece of clay where would you want to remove just a smidgen? The idea of this slighter darker shade is to create the illusion of pushing it back a little so blend well to leave no obvious edges so it too disappears into nothing.
Step 4: Draw backwards & forwards on the back of your hand with your pencil depositing 1-2cm of product. As eye pencils are waxed based your body temp will warm up the product and make it a lot easier to apply smoothly. Using your fine angle brush load it with a small amount of liner and stipple** it along your upper lash line right at the roots from outer corner to inner corner. Gently lift your lid at your brow if needed so you can get as close as possible to you lashes roots. All we are trying to achieve here is the illusion of a thicker lash line not actually making a visible dark eyeliner.
Optional – repeat on the bottom lash line from outer corner two thirds of the way across.
Step 5: Curl lashes at the roots, squeezing & holding 2-3 times per side to ensure a good upwards curl. A brilliant curler if you don’t already have one and trust me every lady should own one. (If it’s the only thing you have time for – regardless of whether you are going to apply mascara DO IT, as this alone opens up and uplifts your eye. Get yourself the Shu Uemura’s lash curler. (Available from David Jones).
Step 6: Apply a coat of mascara from roots to tips both top and bottom. Allow to dry a little then apply a second coat just to the upper lashes right at the tips.
Step 7: Using the pad of your middle finger press a small amount of the highlight shadow (champagne) just where your iris would be on your closed lid. This should be a subtle sheer highlight that will just catch the light as you blink.
A great experiment is to do only one eye, and stand back and see the difference! You will really notice what soft, subtle, barely there makeup can do to create the illusion of lifting and opening.
Now get experimenting! Good luck!
*Dust, I refer to “dust” when I am meaning product is to be applied very lightly. After dipping your brush in the eyeshadow lightly shake your bush to remove any excess then using just the tip of the bristles lightly stroke your lid backwards & forwards to deposit & blend the shadow.
**Stipple, continuous short dabs of the brush that will create a solid line. Advantage of doing it this way is to allow the liner to fall into any small skin folds instead of just skating over the top of you stroke it on.