KAREN + MAKE UP = Eyeliner


By Make Up and Hair artist, Karen Dyer


I have been asked several times now for advice on lining the eyes i.e. eyeliner and how/where to apply it. But it’s a very tricky one to answer generally as many factors come into play and everyone is so different. Factors include your Eye Shape (e.g. almond, round etc) your Eye Angle (up tilt, down cast etc) and your Eye Spacing (close-set, far set etc).


Do you know yours? Have you ever taken the time to really look and identify your unique eye?

If you take into account that attention is drawn automatically to what is darkest on the face well, then your eyeliner plays a huge part does it not? This is where naturally (apart from brows) our darkest lines are with our lash line (whether they be lined to not), so how you add to that can make or break whether you are enhancing or hindering your eye shape.


Just as an eyeliner can lengthen and create the illusion of an uplifted open eye it can just as quickly shrink and drag down the eye making you look tied and droopy.


If the most ideal eye shape is an almond up tilt eye (pictured below) then how can you use your eye liner to create that illusion? How can you through line placement, thickness, as well as the colour you use help create this shape below.


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Tricky ha???? Well not so much if you just break it down.


 – start with your lower lash line. Different I know as habit is generally to do the top first………but even if you don’t want to line the lower lash line, look at the outer corner of your eye and follow the natural curve up from your lower lashes to your top lid. This instantly gives you a natural curve to suit your unique eye shape and allows you to create a stopping point for when you put on your top liner. This is a great trick to use especially when you are trying to create that outer corner flick whether it be exaggerated or subtle. To extend the eye giving an illusion of a bigger eye concentrate the liner on the outer corner only and 1/3 of the way across blending back to nothing.


The easiest and steadiest way to do this is by using a technique I spoke about in my very first post.


“draw backwards & forwards on the back of your hand with your eye pencil depositing 1-2cm of product. As eye pencils are waxed based, your body temp will warm up the product and make it a lot easier to apply smoothly. Using your fine angle brush load it with a small amount of liner and stroke it along your lash line right at the roots”.




– now move to your top lash line. Using the same brush technique above start as thin as you can, lifting your lid at your brow so you can get as close to the lash roots as possible. Then thicken the liner 2/3rds of the way across to the out corner and meeting up with the point you established from your lower lash line. If you have slightly closer set eyes don’t bring your liner right to the inner corner as this will draw the eyes in more, just go 3/4 of the way across and blend to nothing.


Again keep thinking attention will be drawn to what is darkest on the face, so wherever you are putting your darkest thickest line that is where others will subconsciously look first.


Always aim to have your lines finishing with an up tilt flick so the attention is drawn upwards creating open uplifted eyes.


eye make up


Don’t be afraid to use more subtle colours while you experiment with placement and thickness. Charcoal rather than black is a great place to start, even chocolate brown. You will still create illusions but more subtle ones. Eye shadow can even be used instead of eye pencils, this will give a softer more muted line and is easier to remove with a cotton tip as you practice at getting the perfect line for you.


Happy experimenting!

Image credits:  www.youbeauty.com and Karens own.

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