By Make Up and Hair artist, Karen Dyer
So we all know a face with out brows looks kinda crazy do we not?
Such a small feature on a face but one that has a massive impact!
But more often than not the shapes and intensity people create when reshaping or filling a brow can (hugely) be to their detriment. As I have mentioned in previous posts the eye is automatically drawn to what’s darkest on the face so bear in mind if you are filling and darkening your natural brows it may well be the first place attention is drawn – so don’t go overboard.
The ideal brow is graded in thickness, obviously being thicker at your inner eye reducing to half the thickness at the outer corner then reducing further to a fine point. If you continued an imaginary line from this point it should go off into your hairline not down you face. Your brows should not have any straight edges, always keep in mind curves even very slight ones are way more natural and flattering. The overall arch of the brow should not be excessive as that is the fastest way to make your eye lid look hooded and aged, the highest point (arch) should be two thirds of the way along your brow.
The start point of your brow when getting technical and doing corrective makeup, really does depend on your eye spacing (i.e., far set, close-set or even) but to keep it simple and basic just follow an imaginary line up from the outer edge of your nose to the inside of your eye & up just like the inner pink line below. Then the general guide for the finishing point of your brow is also shown below, the easiest way to determine this is to use a makeup brush handle……place it at the corner of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye and up. It’s very common for brows not to be quite out that far especially for side sleepers (fine hairs literally wear off), but it’s such a simple thing to tweak when you fill/reshape your brows with makeup and will make a big difference in framing your eye.
My favourite brow filling/reshaping product is the Senna brow kit (pictured below), applied with a short hair angle brush such as Mac’s 266. You can buy the Senna kit from www.makeupandglow.com.au
Filling and reshaping with a powder product such as this gives a much more subtle natural look compared to a wax brow pencil. Choose a brow colour slightly lighter than your natural brow hairs as you don’t want to darken them too much and filling alone will do just that because you will no longer see your skin colour coming through. Slowly shade and reshape following the basic guide point above depositing a small amount of powder with your brush, pick the matching colour to your hairs where you don’t actually have any (like the outer tip) and if you keep it fine it won’t look obvious it will just look like an extension of your hairs. Going against the natural hair direction initially will help deposit the colour better on the skin then finish by brushing along the natural line.
So get playing ladies and see what a huge difference lightly filling a brow can do to the uplift & framing of your eye.
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Who is Karen Dyer? Read here.